Chingado, Hechizado

"Argentina's like a novel, he said, a lie, or make-believe at best. Buenos Aires is full of crooks and loudmouths, a hellish place, with nothing to recommend it except the women, and some of the writers, but only a few. Ah, but the pampas - the pampas are eternal." 


- The Insufferable Gaucho, Roberto Bolano  


Our time in the Southern Cone of South America draws to a close. It's been a rich and varied experience in Argentina and Chile, but as we travel North we're expecting a change in temperature, and a change in tempo. 


From Salta we fly via Santa Cruz in Bolivia to Lima, Peru. Ever closer to the Equator, back into the heat, the chaos and colors of more tropical latitudes, which we haven't tasted since Rio.