Sunday, January 22, 2012

Buenos Aires: Escuela Viesulas


Splendid MALBA
We took a wrong turn in Palermo, and spent a restless night in a loud street-level apartment adjoining the American Ambassador's tennis court. Buenos Aires may have a delightful climate - hot, dry and breezy. But it's also coursing with human and motor traffic among the many high-rises. Palermo Viejo's bars, shops and restos - so reminiscent of South Beach or Venice in places - tempted us to stay in the neighbourhood, but we were glad that Poetry House in elegant Recoleta could take us in at short notice. And we got a rooftop pool into the bargain... a welcome oasis in the urban heat for Pixies and Parents alike. 




The owner Brent quit finance in San Fran to rework this stately BA building into an aparthotel. Like so many people we've met along the way, he came to Argentina for a few weeks, and stayed for years. For now, the intention is still very much to make it back to London. Not a day passes that Iris doesn't ask to go back to school... And that's St George's, not our improvised (near) daily lessons on the terrace! 


A sweet welcome from Maru


If early BA lessons revolved around the geography of South America, Spanish and local cuisine, yesterday we took a historic detour by visiting Recoleta Cemetery and paying a visit to the Duarte Family mausoleum, where Evita is buried. Iris in particular seems to have developed a fascination with famous people and how they died. With such numerous and elaborate mausolea, the cemetery is a virtual city within Buenos Aires, soaring canopies and angels providing welcome shade. 




We also play Bus Maths... Add the numbers, subtract, multiply and divide. Love the fonts and typefaces, and the personal touches the owner-drivers add to their machines. The detailing looks like something you might find on a vintage stock car or a rally circuit... Nascar Argentino? Reminds me of what the dream car customized 70's vans of my childhood looked like! All pinstripes and reflective tape...



Magic Bus 


Thank you Maru, Marcela and Monica for helping us to get our bearings, and great to compare notes with Yasmine's intrepid German friends Adriane and Yvonne, who persuaded us that long 4x4 rides through the desert to Salta are a plus, not a minus! 















1 comment:

  1. So you were near Plaza Serrrano (because of the bus number 39, that goes by there).
    At night the plaza comes alive with young people gathering to drink, celebrate, sing, dance, play guitar, and just generally enjoy being alive. Many of the kids are dreadlocked Rastafarians, some selling funky jewelry and other crafts, and it's easy to join them and start up a conversation. Next time I go I will get a Buenos Aires temporary rent there!

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